JEM Watercraft

I am thinking of building more than a couple of Townsends so I thought to ask everyone for their ideas on a setup to make them in "medium" volume. Here are some ideas I have:

* plywood patterns to cut the panels with a router
* male+female molds on a strongback for fast and accurate setup and eliminate stitching
* plastic stencils to make clean uniform fillets
* reusable plastic strips to replace the (duct) tape during filleting

G'day Incc63.

I am just finishing off a swamp girl. Like you, I planned to build more than one and probably still will.

here is what I did.

Re - router, I cut and trimmed patterns from real cheap ply for each panel. then I used those patterns to mark out all panels. I could minimise waste this way. once marked out, I cut the panels with a jigsaw leaving about 3/16 inch clearence of the pencil line. When they were all cut, I laid the respective pattern on top and screwed though it into the hull panels.

I used a router with a flush trim or pattern bit to trim the panels. - too easy.

I don't know about the male - female molds thing. i built mine on a strongback. it would be very easy to build successive boats on a stronback

re the other ideas, i have no idea mate. If you think it will work - go for it.

Well the first thing I'd do is build one and use it 10-20 hours for the function you envision it being used. In other words: fishing, day trips, camping, etc. Perhaps loan it to a few trusted paddlers and seek their advice.

Then decide if it meets your expectations and contact me for any possible design changes. I'm not trying to drum up more business, but you'd sell more boats having a design targeted for your specific environment. Then you can brag it was custom designed for your waters.

So let's say you got the design you wanted. You'll need a good set of master templates for the panels. Draw up and cut out a couple sets out of thick plywood so they last. Store in a shaded, dry place.

Building a male assembly jig would be a worth-while investment. You can then minimize how many stitches you need to install, if not eliminate then all together. Done properly, you could have the hull panels assembled and outside fiberglassed in 2 days. Maybe less.

Investing in some good hand tools will be needed.

Finally, get a good feel for your cost. Don't want to price them too high and ccertainly don't want to cheat yourself.

Thanks JEM. You're right about doing market research first however I'll probably build the "production" mold just the same. Any suggestions?

My idea is to have a lot more than the 3 molds you specified on your plans. I figure they should however not be too many to the point that the panels do not "float" (easily move). As I mentioned I am thinking of also having female molds, originally I'd thought one for ever male would be needed but now I think females at the ends should only be used. The males would push the panels out while the females would hold them in. Thoughts?

3 molds? There should be 5 total in the plans unless you got a really old revision.

For your project, one station every 18-24" should work. I've never built a boat without stitches like you're trying to do. But the female molds on top of each male mold should hold the panels in place.

I think the only way to know for sure is try it.

The three I am refering to are the temp frames. You have another two permanent frames near each end.

This is basically like the basket mold assembly method at Bateau except I'll take it a step further by molding the ends of the boat and adding just enough stations to to eliminate having to stitch.

I was thinking to line the edges of the temporary male molds with foam so I don't get any flatspots from unavoidable variations in panel stiffness. I could do the same with the females. Any thoughts?

To gap the panels I was thinking of using metal dowels made from the good old nails. The dowels would have to be detachable I think to be able to remove the hull.

Thank you guys for your support. As always, your comments and criticisms are most welcome.