making a hatch
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- Design Reviewer
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- Location: South-central Michigan
By "the wood", I assume that you mean the wooden lip around the inside of the hatch opening? You attach it with epoxy.
For a seal, others may help you more than me. Some use foam stripping like you put on a storm door. I would lay a bead of silicone silastic on both the hatch cover and the wooden lip. I'd have them concentric so that there were actually two seals, one a bit larger around than the other one.
While this is still wet, I'd lay some plastic wrap, (like saran wrap), as a release agent in between the hatch and lip, and lightly lay the hatch cover down with just the most gentle of pressure.
What you would be trying to accomplish here is to (1) get the surface of each ring of silicone to be smooth up against its mating surface, and (2) not completely compress it. A fraction of the plywood, say, half the thickness of lead in a pencil, should stick up above the deck evenly all the way around its circumference, while the silastic sets up with the hatch laying in place.
After the curing period, say a day, lift off the hatch cover and remove the plastic wrap. You should now have two gaskets, one stuck onto the wooden lip, and another stuck onto the hatch cover. When put together, they should not touch, but have a space between them.
I'd apply some silicone grease around the hatch lip to make it further water resistant, and attach a tether to the inside of the hatch cover itself.
I've never done this process myself it is only what I would do should I ever choose to install a hatch. Other builders may be able to help you more.
For a seal, others may help you more than me. Some use foam stripping like you put on a storm door. I would lay a bead of silicone silastic on both the hatch cover and the wooden lip. I'd have them concentric so that there were actually two seals, one a bit larger around than the other one.
While this is still wet, I'd lay some plastic wrap, (like saran wrap), as a release agent in between the hatch and lip, and lightly lay the hatch cover down with just the most gentle of pressure.
What you would be trying to accomplish here is to (1) get the surface of each ring of silicone to be smooth up against its mating surface, and (2) not completely compress it. A fraction of the plywood, say, half the thickness of lead in a pencil, should stick up above the deck evenly all the way around its circumference, while the silastic sets up with the hatch laying in place.
After the curing period, say a day, lift off the hatch cover and remove the plastic wrap. You should now have two gaskets, one stuck onto the wooden lip, and another stuck onto the hatch cover. When put together, they should not touch, but have a space between them.
I'd apply some silicone grease around the hatch lip to make it further water resistant, and attach a tether to the inside of the hatch cover itself.
I've never done this process myself it is only what I would do should I ever choose to install a hatch. Other builders may be able to help you more.
Kayak Jack
Doing what you like is FREEDOM
Liking what you do is HAPPINESS
I spent most of my money on whiskey and women - and I'm afraid I just wasted the rest.
Doing what you like is FREEDOM
Liking what you do is HAPPINESS
I spent most of my money on whiskey and women - and I'm afraid I just wasted the rest.
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- Design Reviewer
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- Type of boat I like: Wood boats .
- Location: Somewhere around Central Florida
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On my kayak the Lip that the hatch sits on was epoxied into place. Then epoxy was painted on it to make it waterproof. After that some 1/8th inch thick foam gasket material ( 1/2 inch wide ) was put on the lip as a water tight seal. The hatch sits on that gasket material.
The lip was 1 inch wide , 1/2 inch under the deck with 1/2 inch protruding out in the opening. When placing the lip under the deck I marked the center with a pencil so I would know where to place it to keep everything even. Just match the pencil line up with the edge of the hole.
The saw I used was a small keyhole saw with a thin blade. The starter holes were drilled with a 1/8th inch bit , 5 holes in a line all connected , then the tip of the saw was placed in there and I just followed the line around till it was cut out.
It is called a Bonsai Saw.
Chuck.
The lip was 1 inch wide , 1/2 inch under the deck with 1/2 inch protruding out in the opening. When placing the lip under the deck I marked the center with a pencil so I would know where to place it to keep everything even. Just match the pencil line up with the edge of the hole.
The saw I used was a small keyhole saw with a thin blade. The starter holes were drilled with a 1/8th inch bit , 5 holes in a line all connected , then the tip of the saw was placed in there and I just followed the line around till it was cut out.
It is called a Bonsai Saw.
Chuck.
Remember:
Amateurs built the Ark...... Professionals built the Titanic
Visit some fine paddlers at The Southern Paddler
Amateurs built the Ark...... Professionals built the Titanic
Visit some fine paddlers at The Southern Paddler
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- Design Reviewer
- Posts: 1186
- Joined: Sun Jun 20, 2004 8:03 pm
- Type of boat I like: <-- Please read instructions to the left and delete this text. Then, tell us what type boat you like! :-)
- Location: South-central Michigan